Prepping Your Vehicle for Fall and Winter Driving

Just like birthdays and anniversaries, fall and winter have a tendency to sneak up on you. One day it’s sunny and warm, the next it’s cold and rainy or even snowing. Brrrrrr.

And just like it’s better to get that birthday or anniversary present early rather than the day before, you should get your vehicle ready for bad weather driving now while it’s still nice rather than after it gets yucky.

Fortunately, you can get everything you need in one trip to SummitRacing.com. Here’s a checklist of things to, well, check.

Fluids
Let’s start with the easy stuff. Check all of the vehicle’s fluid levels you can—engine oil; coolant; brake fluid; automatic transmission/transaxle fluid or manual transmission oil; and differential/transfer case gear oil. Top off as needed. Many newer vehicles have sealed transmissions, transaxles, and transfer cases or viscous couplers that have to be serviced by the dealer or a shop.

Checking fluid levels on a regular basis is also a good way to assess the health of your systems. For example, low brake fluid can indicate a leaky hose, caliper, or other issue.

If you have an older vehicle and it’s been a few years since you’ve changed out the coolant, differential oil, etc., it’s cheap insurance to do that before the snow flies. Save yourself some hassle and make sure to get any gaskets and sealer you’ll need, and check the condition of hose, fittings, etc. and get replacements for those too.

Lighting
Ever notice that you don’t realize your headlights have gotten dimmer until they fail? That’s because it happens over time and your eyes get used to the new light levels. With the days getting shorter in the Northern Hemisphere, you’ll be using your headlights more often; rain and snow can reduce visibility even further.

Many times the cure is a simple bulb replacement or polishing cloudy lenses. But there can be other, more serious issues:

• Corroded or broken bulb sockets
• Failed relay, module, or fuse, especially if both headlights are not working
• Failed headlight or dimmer switch
• Headlights brightening and dimming with engine RPM, a sign of a failing alternator or slipping drive belt

Another task is to check and realign your headlights, especially if you have installed new ones. Misalignment can throw off the light pattern and reduce visibility, a big issue when driving at night. This JW Speaker article outlines the procedure for aligning headlights.

You should also do a complete exterior light check to make sure taillights, turn signals, marker lights, and any auxiliary lights are functional. Replace burned out bulbs and repair broken or corroded sockets as needed.

Light inspection is also a good time to upgrade your headlights and other bulbs so you can see—and be seen--better. We have halogen, Xenon, and LED bulbs from Phillips, Hella, and Putco. We also carry headlight and taillight assemblies to replace your cloudy or cracked lenses.

Suspension
The last place you want to diagnose a suspension or steering problem is on the side of a cold, snowy road. We posted a story on diagnosing steering and front suspension issues that will be well worth your time to read so you know what to check and repair now in the comfort of your garage or driveway.

While you are under the vehicle, check for torn or missing CV joint boots, rack and pinion steering bellows, and tie rod end dust boots if so equipped. Other items to inspect are driveshaft U-joints, leaking oil pan, transmission pan, and differential cover gaskets; leaking or rusted brake hose and line; and corroded or broken exhaust system components.

Battery
Today’s batteries are reliable and long-lasting, but they’re not invincible. The average lifespan of a typical lead-acid battery is four to five years, and less if you drive in areas with extreme temperatures, do mostly short trips, or have a lot of electronic gadgets on board. Of course, your mileage may vary.

It’s always a good idea to test your battery before the cold sets in. Testers can range from simple charge indicators to more elaborate models that can also test voltage, starter draw, and alternator output.

If your battery is about ready to give up the ghost, consider upgrading to an Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) battery like those made by Optima and XS Power. They use glass mats to cushion ultra-thin lead plates; the mats will squish like a sponge, allowing a manufacturer to squeeze more glass mats and lead into one battery. That means more starts per battery, faster charging, and much longer life. AGM batteries are also vibration-resistant and spill-proof.

And always carry a good set of jumper cables or a jump starter box. You might never need them, but we’ll bet you will eventually run into someone who does and can use your help.

Tires
You might be able to get away with tires that have precious little tread when it’s warm and dry outside, but not in the rain, slush, and snow. Passenger car tires have 10/32 inches of tread depth when new (truck tires often have more), and are legally worn out in the U.S. when tread depth is 2/32 of an inch or less. Useable tread depth is calculated by subtracting 2/32 inches from the tires' new tread depth. A simple tire tread depth gauge is the best way to get accurate measurements.

Tires lose one to two PSI for every 10° F decrease in temperature—and that’s on top of the one to two PSI they normally lose due to leakage around the rim or valve stem. Underinflated tires mean less reaction time for braking, and less control if you skid on wet or snowy roads. That’s why you have a tire pressure gauge in your glovebox to periodically check tire pressure, even if your vehicle has a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). A good-quality, accurate gauge can be had for $20 or less, and you can choose from analog or digital models.

If you live in an area that gets lots of wintry weather, consider getting a set of winter tires. They put more rubber on the road surface and have tread designs that provide more bite in the snow and also channel water and snow more effectively than summer, all-weather, or even some all-terrain tires. Mount them on a set of spare OE replacement wheels and spare yourself the hassle of a twice-yearly visit to the shop for mounting.

Check valve stems or TPMS sensors for leaks and other issues. This tutorial will show you how to check and replace TPMS sensors.

Other Stuff
Here are some other items you should have on your winter prep checklist:
• Belts and tensioners
• Hoses
• Fuses and relays
• Windshield wipers and fluid
• Climate control system, rear defroster, and cabin filter if so equipped
• Air and fuel filters
• Remote key fobs and batteries

Winter Emergency Kit
You never know when you’ll be stuck on the road during a storm or have to help others caught in one. It’s a smart idea to keep a winter emergency kit in your vehicle. You can get one already packaged, or make your own with the recommended items listed below. Make sure to include blankets, food and water, and above all, a cell phone.

• Snow brush/scraper
• Shovel
• Flashlight or work light plus spare batteries and/or charger
• Safety lights
• Work gloves
• Jumper cables or jump starter box
• Tool kit and electrical repair kit
• Extra motor oil and coolant
• Spare fuses and relays